Faberge fashion raid
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If we look at the history of Fabergé, one of the most renowned palace jewelers in the world, it’s like watching a grand theatrical performance—divided into acts filled with drama, transformation, and reinvention. Act I: In the 17th century, the Fabergé family fled France due to religious persecution and eventually settled in Saint Petersburg in 1842. Gustav Fabergé opened his jewelry shop, and later, his son Peter Carl gained royal favor, becoming famous for crafting the iconic Easter eggs. However, after the 1917 October Revolution, the family had to flee once more, marking the end of an era.
Act II: In 1951, the brand was sold to American entrepreneur Sam Rubin, who used the name for perfume for about a decade. Then, in 1989, Unilever acquired the company, investing heavily to revive the brand. At this point, Fabergé had expanded far beyond its original luxury status, appearing on everything from chains to soap. It had lost its former prestige but remained a recognizable name.
Act III: In 2009, with the help of private investment from Pallinghurst Resources, Fabergé made a bold return, launching a new line of fine jewelry aimed at rekindling its golden age. No longer producing eggs, perfumes, or detergents, the brand focused on high-quality, wearable pieces. The new collection featured white diamonds priced between $18,000 and $260,000, making them more accessible than previous collections. “We need to design things that are more acceptable to the public and can be given as gifts,†said Katharina Flohr, creative director of Fabergé and former editor of Russian Vogue. “Our goal is to connect fashion with our brand, creating jewelry that’s both modern and rooted in the legendary heritage of Fabergé.â€
The new designs, created by Parisian jeweler Frédéric Zaavy and crafted by the Genève team, drew inspiration from historical elements, including the famous Fabergé eggs. One piece, the Mazuka bracelet, features 1,409 diamonds, evoking the elegance of past dance halls. The collection, yet to be officially named, includes pieces inspired by the legendary "dancing cards" of the 1900s. “It's like following graceful steps from another time,†Flohr remarked. Even the sun-like pendants were influenced by the imperial Easter eggs, such as the one given by Tsar Alexander III to his wife in 1892.
While the famous eggs will make a comeback, Flohr chose not to launch them immediately in 2009. “We never wanted to copy the past,†she explained. “We needed to build momentum and show the world the true essence of Fabergé craftsmanship.†To balance luxury and accessibility, the brand aims to maintain its high standards while reaching a broader, more international audience, especially in Asia.
In addition to the jewelry, the company is working on restoring early enamel objects and antiques, aligning them with the brand’s historical style. A new watch collection, called Mohr Time, is set to launch in March at Baselworld. The company is also seeking retail partners in the U.S., Russia, the Far East, and the Middle East, with plans to open new stores in 2012. Currently, their only flagship store is located in Geneva, designed by Jaime Hayon.
This time, the Fabergé family itself has returned to the scene, marking the first time since the Russian revolution. A Heritage Committee has been established, including the founders’ granddaughters, Sarah and Tatiana, who are writing biographies of the family. “I’m proud to say it’s a family business,†Flohr said, hinting that this could be the start of a new chapter—the fourth act—in the story of Fabergé.