In a surprising turn of events, Shanghai Import and Export Co., Ltd. (referred to as "Shanghai Service") has found itself in a bitter dispute with Pierre Cardin over the acquisition of his brand's trademarks and leather goods. While some parts of the assets have already been transferred to Wenzhou-based businessmen, the Shanghai Service is deeply dissatisfied with what it perceives as a breach of trust.
The controversy stems from what is now being called "one woman and two marriages" — a reference to the fact that Pierre Cardin appears to be engaging in multiple deals simultaneously. This has led to strong criticism from the Shanghai Service, which publicly accused the renowned designer of violating basic business ethics. According to Yao Juming, a lawyer representing the Shanghai Service, the company has already sent a formal letter to Pierre Cardin, warning that if the acquisition remains unclear, they may have no choice but to take legal action.
Earlier this year, Chen Liang, chairman of the Shanghai Service, was optimistic after months of negotiations with Pierre Cardin. It was initially reported that an agreement had been signed for the overall acquisition of the brand. However, by late August, the Shanghai Service announced that it had received approval from both the Shanghai Municipal Commission of Commerce and the National Development and Reform Commission, effectively positioning itself as the sole candidate for the deal.
But the situation quickly took a dramatic turn. In mid-September, the Shanghai Service learned that some of Pierre Cardin’s trademarks, including those related to leather goods, had already been transferred to another domestic entity — the Kadan Road Group, led by Sun Xiaofei. According to internal sources, the total value of the trademarks was reportedly 37 million euros, with 33.3 million euros already paid out by September, including 6 million euros as early as May.
“This clearly violates the original agreement between Shanghai Service and Mr. Cardin,†Chen Liang said, adding that the move was unacceptable. Even if Pierre Cardin eventually decided to sell to someone else, he insisted that it would still not be acceptable.
Surprisingly, Sun Xiaofei also adopted a firm stance, stating that the agreement had already been signed, and some payments had already been made. “It’s too late to change the decision now,†he said. However, Sun Xiaofei also hinted at potential legal action, claiming that if the final outcome wasn’t satisfactory, his group would sue Pierre Cardin to reclaim trademark management rights.
The Shanghai Service insists that its status as the only approved acquirer by the Chinese government means that any other deal involving Pierre Cardin would not be recognized. They suspect that Pierre Cardin may have used domestic enterprises' emotional attachment to the brand to provoke competition and gain unfair advantages.
If Pierre Cardin does not respond adequately, the Shanghai Service said it would organize legal teams to file lawsuits and determine his legal responsibility, aiming to stop any unfair dealings. Behind the scenes, there are two powerful entities vying for control: the Italian Dupont Group, which holds the crocodile-shirt and leather goods distribution rights, and Sun Xiaofei, who is part of a group that includes three other Wenzhou entrepreneurs.
Industry observers note that these four individuals represent some of the most influential figures in Guangdong and Wenzhou, and their combined strength should not be underestimated. The parent company of Shanghai Service, China Garment (000902.SZ), is owned by the central enterprise China Hengtian Group, further emphasizing the financial power behind the scene.
According to insiders, the competition for the Pierre Cardin brand began earlier this year when four groups, including one from Hong Kong and one from Taiwan, expressed interest in acquiring it. Ultimately, the Taiwanese group withdrew, leaving the remaining contenders — Sun Xiaofei and the Shanghai Service — in a fierce battle.
It is also said that Sun Xiaofei impressed Pierre Cardin with a detailed report on revitalizing the brand, which played a key role in securing the deal. What remains puzzling, however, is that despite Sun Xiaofei’s initial announcement of a full acquisition, the deal ended up being limited to just leather goods. This shift raised questions, especially given the long-standing cooperation between the Shanghai Service and Pierre Cardin’s network of over 20 domestic agents.
Industry analysts believe that the Shanghai Service's established relationship with these agents, along with their extensive sales network, gives them a significant advantage. However, Sun Xiaofei and his group, with their deep pockets and strategic vision, are seen as serious competitors in this high-stakes game.
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